Deeply Superficial

The Reef Krakoff Story

2011-05-27T21:43:00.000-04:00

Last month's New Yorker has a great story on the story of how designer Reef Krakoff began his career at Coach (after working at Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger), and the story behind his newish eponymous line.

Coach has been a top-ranked accessories brand in the United States for more than a decade. Thirty-six per cent of the premium handbags sold in this country have a Coach label on them.

"Frankly, I go into one of the stores now and I don't see one bag that I like" - Miles Cahn, the founder of Coach

Read the full story on newyorker.com.

Anna in WSJ. Magazine

2011-03-23T14:50:00.000-04:00

She's been editor of the American edition of Vogue since 1988, and by now it has become commonplace to call her the most powerful woman in fashion. But her influence is much broader than it appears in her fun-house-mirror caricature: a brittle despot in round Chanel sunglasses who rules the world around her through impeccable taste, terror and sarcasm. It is hidden within an intricate web of powerful friends and allies, many of whom she's worked with for decades. That web spans the U.S., out to Hollywood, down to Washington, and across both oceans. Imperious as she may appear, she's really more impresario than empress.

The unusual part, say her intimates, is that there's never a direct quid pro quo. On the other hand, if Wintour does ask for something, there aren't two possible answers. "If I get a request for something I don't want to do," says Marc Jacobs, "first I get an email, then a phone call from someone at Vogue, and now I don't even bother to say no—I know the next call is from her."

"With all the new media outlets out there, with all the noise, a voice of authority and calm like Vogue becomes more important than ever. The more eyes on fashion, the more opinions about fashion, the more exploration of fashion around the world, the better it is for Vogue. Vogue is like Nike or Coca-Cola—this huge global brand. I want to enhance it, I want to protect it, and I want it to be part of the conversation."

Trends Trends Trends

2011-03-10T11:32:00.000-05:00

Read about my favorite Milan Fashion Week trends on Front Row Mag!

Sometimes, it's in the details

2011-03-01T14:15:00.000-05:00

I'm not sure if I love everything in the Fall Dolce & Gabbana collection - it feels at times like a discombobulated mash up between menswear-inspired tailoring and sexy dresses. But I do love the details - the fun sequined accessories and chic leather bags.

Yigal Azrouel Fall 2011: What I Want To Wear Right Now

2011-02-20T21:21:00.000-05:00

Young, preppy, fresh silhouettes in bold colors. Softened through furs, knits and layering. Masculine without being too structured.

Last Summer: Rodarte in Venice

2011-02-19T11:13:00.001-05:00

I had to hand-carry this Rodarte look from a car onto the Venice Beach boardwalk...hence...very lovely. Although I'd have to say it looked a lot better on Lindsey Wixson than it did on the street.

Reading Material: What Happens Next

2011-02-12T01:58:00.001-05:00

A very interesting interview on Style.com with Carine Roitfeld a week after she left French Vogue.

ON FREELANCING

It’s strange for me to come back here to New York during the fashion show season and not to be the editor in chief of French Vogue. Of course, I’ve done it before when I was just a freelancer, but ten years is a long time. It’s like 20 times I came here for the shows, and suddenly I’m not the editor in chief. That’s a custom, so it’s hard to now be a freelance editor. But it’s exciting, too.

[For the last ten years] I didn’t have a lot of time to think about the big picture or how fashion is going to be in some years. Now it’s a good moment for me to think about fashion for today, because a lot of things have changed, and when you’re working you don’t see all these things changing. But when you stop, you can see it. You have to understand the new way of working with fashion.

ON STREET FASHION

...it’s true that, when you go to a show now, the photographers are more interested sometimes in the dress or the jacket you’re wearing than to photograph the show, and I think this is totally wrong. It’s an honor and you smile to the people. But is it normal? I think there is something a bit weird, that more people want to see these looks than want to see what John Galliano or Dolce & Gabbana did for the show.

ON MAGAZINES

In general terms, do you see a positive future for magazines?
I think it will be very difficult for a lot of magazines, because now you see so many things on the Internet right away and you cannot be as quick as the Internet. Maybe some magazines will stay, but they have to be very beautiful, like collector’s items…Today we have to think differently. [Take] globalization. Ten years ago we never thought we were going to have a Vogue in China, and it’s one of the most successful Vogues, so if you’re not moving, you’re dead. Maybe it’s about going to other countries, to find another way to be interesting in fashion, to talk to a wider audience.

THE INTERNET

Any interest in working on the Internet?
I’m not an Internet [girl]. I’m not writing on blogs. I’m not a Facebook girl. Even though there is a fake Facebook with my name, it’s not me. I’m not on Twitter, it’s not me. But I think if I’m not going on the Internet, I’m going to totally disappear, because the future is the Internet. It’s very difficult for me to work on the Internet, but maybe I will find a way. I think this is very, very important.

GOLDEN HANDCUFFS

People say, “Why did you leave French Vogue? It’s crazy.” But I say, I always liked challenge. When Tom Ford asked me to consult for Gucci, I had never consulted in my life. I didn’t know what consulting was, and look, we made something amazing. I have a lot of ideas coming, and it’s more exciting than getting older in your golden cage.

Read the full article here.

And so it begins...

2011-02-10T02:15:00.000-05:00

Snapshot: NYFW Fall 2011 collections. Gary Graham. Tribeca. February 9, 2011.

Lanvin Jewelry

2011-02-02T15:04:00.001-05:00

How stunning is this Spring Lanvin collar necklace that I ran across this weekend? They make the best jewelry, and beautifully crafted to boot.

Repeating the obvious. But it's a point worth repeating.

2011-01-20T21:43:00.000-05:00

Ironic that while work experience has never been more important, it has also never been more impossible to sustain, particularly in London. Only the wealthy can afford to do unpaid work when there are bills to pay, so increasingly only the wealthy seem to end up doing work experience. Certainly I have noticed this in the fashion industry: I realise I'm not the first to point out that an internship on a glossy magazine has become like some sort of finishing school for the posh.

Even among the less wealthy, students still have to rely on the bank of mum and dad to finance their internships, placing more pressure on parents already cash-strapped from funding three years' worth of university education. As usual, the poorest and least supported suffer, unable to prove their worth, however high it might be.

From the fashion editor of the London Evening Standard.

The end of an era? Tao Comme Des Garcons Label to End

2011-01-18T12:22:00.001-05:00

WWD reports today that the Spring Summer 2011 collection will be the last one for this Comme des Garcons brand, Tao. I've requested it a bit for shoots, but it's pretty conceptual and hard for the average woman to wear, so I can understand why in this age of red carpet appearances and celebrity endorsements, they might decide to close it. It's not every designer that can show a collection inspired by Miss Honey, the drag queen! Tao Kurihara, we look forward to seeing what you will be up to next!

Stylist Mel Ottenberg Interviewed by Style.com

2011-01-17T18:31:00.000-05:00

“Style,” as Jean Cocteau said, “is a simple way of saying complicated things.” And so it might be said that stylist Mel Ottenberg’s job is to find that simple way of saying something complicated. A button undone, a cuff rolled just so, the particular way a particular belt is slung over a particular dress: A good stylist makes these kinds of choices seem inevitable, and uses them to impart heaps of information about fashion, about the vibe on the street and the mood of the nation, and about how to look, now. “You’re kind of a medium,” explains Ottenberg...“You’re doing your own appropriation of this ‘thing,’ that’s how you bring the style into it. That’s hard to talk about, and it’s pretty much subliminal,” he adds. “I don’t want the style to be noticed, per se. I just want the kid who’s reading the magazine to think, wow, that looks great.”

"...styling is one of those careers where you’re kind of struggling until one day, you aren’t. [...] There was this constant feeling of, OK, maybe now everything gets easier. But it didn’t, not for a while. In retrospect, I think that’s good—I had a lot of opportunities to try things out, make a few mistakes, and so by the time some really high-stakes gigs came along, I was ready for them."

I have a feeling I'm going to like this new series from Style.com's Style File blog, Behind the Scenesters. Low key yet so informative and interesting. Can't wait to see more!

Read the full interview HERE.

Ah, Canadian Magazines

2011-01-14T23:50:00.000-05:00

"Just as traditional movie stardom is threatened by the reality meteors, so will the rarefied air of Wintour grow too thin to sustain life."

I have many issues with this article by National Post writer Leanne Delap, former editor of Fashion, currently Canada's largest fashion magazine. But her main point that I imagine she is making with the article is that magazine editors are becoming more personable and available, which is true.

I disagree strongly when she writes "being a bitch is so last season," however, because I don't think that it is fair of Delap to imply that editors like Vreeland and Wintour (who is referenced at length in the article) were about "being a bitch." Being firm and mysterious and demanding of your staff is not necessarily a bad thing, accessible or not.

Read the full article here, and let me know what you think.

Orange Crush: Backstage at Karen Walker's Spring 2011 Show

2011-01-14T03:02:00.002-05:00


Loving all this orange, and the happy models!

Walt Disney Signature by Noir Jewelry

2011-01-14T02:59:00.001-05:00

I never thought I would want a Disney-branded product. Ever. But this Noir Jewelry designed bracelet (inspired by the cartoon classic Fantasia) for Walt Disney Signature is pretty amazing. [Note: I'm wearing it upside down because it fits my wrists better that way.]

Definitely a splurge, but if you're interested you can buy it online here!

Happy New Year!

2011-01-08T13:59:00.000-05:00

Easter Island snapshots, 2011.
Sometimes, it's nice to get away. Far, far away.

Some Thoughts on a Career in Fashion

2010-12-16T23:46:00.000-05:00

When you're 22, work is all about passion. Money is irrelevant -- more than that, it's vulgar. Be creatively fulfilled or bust! When you're 29 turning 30, however, living in Manhattan on a fashion magazine writer's salary goes from romantic to irresponsible to untenable pretty quickly.

Read the full post here. Johanna Cox was the winner of the reality TV show Stylista, and worked at Elle for almost two years.

Food for thought, indeed.

Alexis Bittar Spring 2011

2010-11-17T23:52:00.001-05:00

Love love love, as usual! [Photos by me.]


A great monochromatic necklace and choker combination.

Camel Crush

2010-11-17T12:12:00.002-05:00

View the full story at Front Row Mag. Shot by James Kachan.

The State of Fashion

2010-11-12T20:02:00.002-05:00

"Young designers are now the focus of a New York City initiative to provide mentors and new retail concepts. Others are trying to save the garment district, where many factories have closed or laid off workers and raised prices. Fabric costs are up, especially for cotton, and just about everyone who deals with manufacturing in China knows you can’t get a minimum of anything: 1,000 blouses maybe, but not 100. Department stores threaten to cancel orders if a delivery is late. Meanwhile fast-fashion companies reap the rewards of being nimble and democratic while grabbing the ideas of others. Prestige labels hold on to their heritage. And consumers wonder: Where’s your app?" - Cathy Horyn

Again, why she's my favorite fashion scribe. Full story here.

Fashion In Real Life

2010-10-31T22:24:00.000-04:00

With all of the talk about the influence of the Internet and technology on fashion consumption and media over the last decade, it's still amazing to me that sometimes we can still be surprised by our other senses. Sometimes, looking at a garment in real life is the only way to really understand the quality level, construction methods involved, and the designer's genius. As convenient as looking at a photo on Style.com can be, or fun to see a look on the runway, there's nothing quite like the process of actually touching a garment, turning it inside out, and trying it on (either yourself or on a model)!

I had seen the photos of Christopher Kane's Spring 2011 collection online more than once, and heard all the raves from editors and critics about his use of bold colors and sharp silhouettes. But I didn't fall in love with the pieces until I had the chance to look at a skirt on a photo shoot last week and realized that the neon leather was actually LASERCUT and that the negative space was where the leather had been cut away. I had assumed that the neon pattern had been screen printed onto a dark background, and was quite impressed with the level of workmanship in person.

Now, how to save up for one of these beauties...

Spring Summer 2011 Accessories

2010-10-17T13:06:00.002-04:00

Some of my favorite accessories for Spring. Can't wait! All things I would actually purchase and wear...

Alexander Wang cutout booties

Brian Atwood flats

Christian Louboutin tie dye leather bag

Kate Spade leather bag

3.1 Phillip Lim platforms

Tommy Hilfiger colorblock heels

No More Bargains??

2010-10-15T22:44:00.000-04:00

The outlet concept took off in the 1970s, when VF (VFC), the world's biggest apparel maker, began letting shoppers rummage through cardboard boxes of its excess hosiery at its mills, says Linda Humphers, editor-in-chief of Value Retail News. About the same time, Nordstrom opened the first Rack in the basement of its Seattle flagship store to get rid of its leftover shoes. Outlet malls proliferated in the early 1990s. By 2008, the U.S. had almost 13,000 stores in outlet centers, and everyone from Anne Klein (JNY) to Kenneth Cole (KCP) to Elie Tahari had hopped on the trend.

This past week, I bought an amazing silk jacket (albeit missing a few buttons, which I will have to get replaced) from Oscar de la Renta for about 94% off of the manufacturer's suggested retail price. I found this bargain at a Neiman Marcus Last Call store in Austin, TX. These kinds of deals, however, will become increasingly rare, according to an article I just read today from Bloomberg Businessweek.

Entitled "Why Luxury Goods Are Scarce at Outlet Malls," the article examines in brief the conundrum facing discount retailers today - how to fill stores with discounted products worth buying when there are so many "off-price" retailers and retail outlets (including websites such as Bluefly and Gilt) to compete for the same remainders, luxury stores are cutting back on stock in general, and many outlet stores have cheaper merchandise specifically made for them instead of selling the same quality and designs that are offered at regular retail.

Not long ago, the upscale outlet was a secret weapon for fashionistas seeking leftover Dolce & Gabbana dresses at 75 percent off. Over 30 years ago, almost all the clothes at upscale outlets came from the main locations of tony retailers like Nordstrom (JWN). Now as little as 10 percent is made up of designer goods actually sold at upscale retail stores...At Saks' Off 5th stores, 10 percent to 20 percent of the merchandise is clearance from Saks' full-priced stores, about 20 percent is Off 5th store-label goods, and most of the rest is made for the chain by vendors, says spokeswoman Julia Bentley.

Takes away a bit of the magic, doesn't it? Knowing that 80 or 90% of the merchandise at these stores weren't actually marked down so much as just priced a little lower than the "suggested" retail price. Then what will happen to our outlet malls, discount stores, and sample sales? How will the American consumer face the new retail landscape....

All I know is that I'm not returning that Oscar jacket!

Helmut Lang Accessories

2010-09-22T20:06:00.000-04:00

How incredible are these leather goods? I need the brown ones!

Photos from Vogue.com.

National Affairs

2010-09-12T23:38:00.000-04:00

Over the years, Italy learned the difficult lesson that it could no longer compete with China on price. And so, its business class dreamed, Italy would sell quality, not quantity. [...] And then, China came here [to Prato]. Chinese laborers, first a few immigrants, then tens of thousands, began settling in Prato in the late 1980s. They transformed the textile hub into a low-end garment manufacturing capital — enriching many, stoking resentment and prompting recent crackdowns that in turn have brought cries of bigotry and hypocrisy.

Thanks to a fashion production course offered at Ryerson University a few years ago, I've been quite aware of the way fashion merchandise is labeled - and the subtle difference of seeing something that is "Made in France" versus (for example) "Materials Made in France" or "Assembled in France." The labeling of country of manufacture and origin is important for tax and import / export purposes as goods move around the world, but in the last few decades this information has also helped to guide consumers -for better or for worse- to determine the relative quality of their purchase. The assumption of course is that labor and materials are better in European countries with a long and storied history of fashion production, such as Italy and France, compared to goods manufactured in countries such as India and China.

This New York Times article brings up a new issue that I had never considered or heard about, however. Besides the issues of illegal labourers and dodgy business practices that the article touches on, what intrigues me is the question of what happens to country of origin in the age of globalisation and an increasingly nomadic work force? Does it still make sense for us as manufacturers and consumers to generalize and grade product using these outdated markers of quality that can be so easily manipulated?

Asian Designers in America

2010-09-04T22:14:00.000-04:00

I was interviewing an old boss last week in Toronto, a well-known Filipino-Canadian designer who's been around for over a decade, and in our conversation we talked a little about the prevalence of Asian-American fashion designers today compared to when he started designing. This hasn't been a phenomenon so much in Canada, but were were both astounded and proud to see so many Asian designers succeeding in a real way, and having a presence in the media.

In today's New York Times, there is a story about this very trend, entitled "Asian-Americans Climb Fashion Ladder." It's an interesting read, although perhaps in retrospect a little too similar to this WSJ article on the same topic from 2009.

[There is] an important demographic shift on Seventh Avenue. At the Fashion Week that begins here on Thursday, many of the most promising new designers are of Asian descent...names that are increasingly likely to represent the future of fashion. [...] The rise of Asian designers in America has actually come in several smaller waves, including one that marked the emergence of Anna Sui and Vera Wang in the 1980s. In the last few years, however, as a new generation of designers has asserted itself in New York, Asian-Americans have been at the forefront. In 1995, there were only about 10 Asian-American members of the Council of Fashion Designers of America. Today there are at least 35.

Eric Wilson writes that there are two possible explanations for this shift:

First:

Major design schools around the world have seen an influx of Asian-American and Asian-born students since the 1990s, partly through their own recruitment efforts in countries with rapidly developing fashion industries, like South Korea and Japan, and partly because of changing attitudes in those countries about fashion careers.

And secondly:
This has happened largely for the same reason that the New York fashion industry, through the ’80s, was populated most visibly by designers of Jewish heritage, like Calvin Klein, Ms. Karan, Ralph Lauren, Marc Jacobs and Mr. Kors. Throughout the 20th century, generations of Jewish immigrants had created a thriving garment district in New York, first as laborers, then as factory owners, manufacturers, retailers and, eventually, as designers. Many of today’s Asian-American designers say they experienced a similar evolution from the factory to the catwalk, since some of their parents and grandparents were once involved in the production of clothes.

These are both compelling agreements, but regardless of the reasons and rationales, having worked with numerous Korean and Chinese owned (and staffed) factories in downtown Toronto and midtown New York, and studied fashion design alongside a plethora of Asian students (born in North American and abroad) at Ryerson University, it's exciting to see that the face of the industry at large is starting to reflect the ethnic makeup of the behind the scenes population in some small way! Now if only there were more females in the mix...

Sally Singer on Fashion

2010-09-02T10:22:00.001-04:00

People think that if they buy classics -- a trench coat, or a V-neck sweater or a great pair of flat boots -- they're safe because they've invested in things that are gonna last 20 years. But within six months, it's the wrong V-neck or the wrong flat boot, because suddenly the line is wrong. Fashion people are stimulated by proportion shifting -- getting taller, getting thinner. Hemlines go up, hemlines go down. Shoes get wacky, shoes get clunky, shoes get skinny. The fastest things to date are those classics, cause it's just proportions laid bare. There's nothing else going on. If you had invested in a feathered chubby or an incredible crinoline, it's never going to go out of style. I think the most eccentric things are the things that last the longest.

A very interesting interview with Sally Singer, Editor of T Magazine, from Paper magazine.

Read the rest.

Now and Then

2010-08-24T01:34:00.000-04:00

[Nina Garcia's book is the] latest example of how Ms. Garcia is building her own brand by stretching the parameters of what a fashion editor is.

It’s a complicated time for the grandes dames atop the mastheads of fashion magazines. They face an advertising base shaken by a lingering recession, and the rise of bloggers and Web-savvy fashionistas...who are eating away at the once-uncontested influence of magazine editors to shape trends.

“The fashion editor as it used to be has changed,” Ms. Garcia said, over lunch in the cafeteria at the Hearst Tower on West 57th Street, where Marie Claire is published. [...] “Now you have to wear many hats, and whoever tells you differently is wrong. Now you’re on TV, whether you want it or not.”

An interesting if not very analytical look from the New York Times at Nina Garcia's career up close and also the role of fashion editors in today's media landscape.

Editors as brands are an area of interest to me, because it's a fairly recent phenomenon (at least away from the top of the masthead) and one which is both very logical and yet impractical, in my opinion. On the one hand, it's amazing publicity and critically important for the media outlet to have photogenic, telegenic, articulate brand ambassadors out and about, taking over responsibilities beyond market work, writing, styling, and editing. On the other hand, the irony and reality is that all those TV segments, reality show episodes, reader events and additional pr-generating activities are extremely time-consuming, which may in some cases take time away from the initial editing workload.

The bottom line, though, is that these branding activities create added value for the employer, while empowering editors to become highly visible and individual entities for readers, and therefore much more difficult to replace. We imagine these shifts are here to stay.

Dear readers, how many mastheads have you memorized? Can you match the junior market editors to their Sartorialist snaps?

In Bloom

2010-08-22T22:07:00.000-04:00

I'm loving this editorial from the September issue of Numero!! Makes me want to reenact the whole thing next spring at the Cherry Blossom festival in Brooklyn...just kidding!!

Source

PS. What my normal cherry blossom photos look like!

Fashion GPS Takes Over the World

2010-08-19T23:58:00.001-04:00

As they move to Lincoln Center, the runway shows, which will take place from Sept. 9 to Sept. 16, are turning the invitation and check-in process over to a computer system. Instead of creating lavishly designed paper invitations, many fashion houses will send email invitations and bar-coded confirmations. If all goes according to plan, guests won't have to swarm around clipboard-wielding assistants but will line up at airport-style kiosks to receive their seating assignments.

The new technology is designed to make admitting guests faster and more orderly—and possibly more resistant to gate-crashers. But with thousands of fashionistas using the system for the first time, it also may introduce more confusion, as well as the possibility of computer glitches delaying guests.

I'm really interested to see how this experiment at New York Fashion Week will pan out. No more gate grashers? Or chaos?

I've always liked getting the hard invitations, but carrying them around was always a pain. Fashion GPS revolutionized the way that samples and also rsvp'ing for events has happened in the past few years, and this may be another point of no return for the industry. Stay tuned!

Source: WSJ

Shop Til You Drop

2010-08-15T01:29:00.000-04:00

This week, for work, I literally had to spend days (I know, poor me) and days shopping. Online, in department stores, and at boutiques throughout New York City. There were firm guidelines of what to look out for, but almost no budget...and the most interesting thing about the entire exercise was it allowed me to get a glimpse into how differently the wealthy shop compared to the way that I (and most of my friends) do. While these perks might seem common to you, dear reader, they are not part of my normal shopping experience.

Instead of messy sale racks and long queues for crowded sample sales, there are private dressing rooms, cool glasses of ice water served with a slice of lime on a silver tray, and a tailor and multiple sales staff attending to your every need. Sizes not on the floor are procured instantly, whether from the stock room or shipped overnight from the Chicago boutique. At select designer boutiques, regulars can be heard requesting that their favorite items be made in alternative fabrics, colors, patterns.

Besides being exceedingly pleasant, the experience made me really wonder about the rise of e-commerce within the luxury sector. Finally, I understand first-hand the hesitation that so many designers and fashion houses had (and that some still hold) about selling their wares online. As lovely as sites like Net-A-Porter and Barneys.com are, for the most dedicated clientele the experience can't exactly compare to the attention and assistance they are given when they stop by their favorite boutique. No matter how pretty the shipping box may be.

Dream a Little Dream of Me

2010-08-08T15:08:00.000-04:00

One of the most interesting look books I've seen in a while, from Them Atelier. Who cares if you can't see the clothes when the models look so dreamy?
More and source.

Consumer Reports

2010-08-06T23:42:00.000-04:00

I just finished reading the cover story on a recent issue of Bloomberg Business week, entitled "The New Abnormal: American Consumers are Cutting Back. Except When They Are Not."

Basically the article attempts to discuss and gauge the current mood of the great American consumer, to see if how it influences spending patterns and the overall economic health of the consumer goods industry. It questions, but doesn't manage to explain, the seemingly contradictory signs currently coming out of patterns of consumption. Specifically, why is revenue for "luxury" or discretionary brands such as Apple or Starbucks on the rise when shoppers are financially insecure enough to be clipping coupons and switching to store brand toothpaste en masse.

The answer (and I'm sure you know this already, perhaps from personal experience) is simply that humans are not rational creatures, and we make "deals" with ourselves that are more emotional than factual, and have become accustomed to the idea of consumption as a "treat" and reward against the monotony of daily life. Which explains, exactly, why I might have bought a very expensive pair of leopard-print Louboutin boots at the same time that I canceled our household Netflix account (which costs less than $10 a month).

How has your spending patterns changed (if at all) during this recession?

Smile Like You Mean It

2010-08-04T01:00:00.000-04:00

I had the chance to work with Lindsey last week, and she was so sweet and adorable. I love this story that she was featured in for the Spring issue of Pop - styled by Vanessa Reid and shot by Paul Graham. I usually love more broody, romantic images...but there is something so refreshing about enthusiasm and joy. Love her!

Source (and to see the rest of the images).

Vacation time!

2010-07-28T01:47:00.000-04:00

Sorry for the lack of posts! I've been working and vacationing in SoCal and will be headed to Vermont for more holidays shortly. More posts and musings to come!

Object Lesson

2010-07-26T00:14:00.000-04:00

My new obsession for Fall is this lovely Louis Vuitton reworked Speedy bag. Need. It. Now.

Culture of Couture

2010-07-12T01:28:00.002-04:00

What’s not in doubt is that haute couture – the term translates as “high sewing” – is a spectacular anachronism. Colossal in its costs, tiny in its clientele and questionable in its influence, it still remains one of the great themes of Parisian life. [...] At this stratospheric peak of the rag trade, many designers never even meet the women who buy their clothes. Some are known only by numbered codes, do their buying through intermediaries and settle their bills from Swiss bank accounts.

To qualify as couture, a garment must be entirely hand-made by one of the 11 Paris couture houses registered to the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture. Each house must employ at least 20 people, and show a minimum of 75 new designs a year. So far, so stirringly traditional, but the Big Four operators – Chanel, Dior, Givenchy and Gaultier – increasingly use couture as a marketing device for their far more profitable ready-to-wear, fragrance and accessory lines.

Quotes from a good primer from London's Telegraph newspaper on the issues surrounding the couture segment of the fashion industry today.

Personally, while I love Chanel I can't understand why someone would buy something minimalist like this black dress from their haute couture collection rather than something similar that is RTW. And perhaps that should be part of the conversation about couture - whether couture garments have the responsibility to be more extravagant. fashion-forward, and fantastically detailed if they are meant to inspire sales of other (relatively inexpensive) products, or if it is just the conditions of production and exclusivity of sale that defines the genre.

Retail Identity

2010-07-02T01:06:00.000-04:00

I've been doing a lot of shopping for work and photo shoots and ad jobs and just for fun lately, and what I find is interesting is the special magnetic pull when a store's aesthetic and projected customer is...you! Haven't you noticed how there is a huge difference between walking into a store you don't necessarily identify with (for me, Banana Republic or J. Crew) and loving individual pieces...and then going somewhere where they have you pegged spot on (Oak in New York for me) and everything would be just perfect for your life and you need to have it right away. So dangerous!

Some of my favorite things from Oak's annual 304050 sale, happening right now.

The Hermes Scarf

2010-06-23T21:24:00.000-04:00

Over at Searching for Style, there is a great read about the process behind the making of an Hermes scarf, ultimately becoming a discussion about what luxury is and an explanation for the pricing behind an item that may at first seem extravagant.

These are the kinds of behind-the-scenes glimpses into the business of fashion that I'm always interested in, and the sort of thing I tried to go into (albeit more briefly) when I wrote posts over at my old work that were also called Fashion 101.

In Bloom: Stella Resort

2010-06-21T19:53:00.000-04:00

Everyone's been talking and talking about how many presentations and full-on collections there have been this season for Resort, which is normally a lot more low key.

Personally, I'm too obsessed with these amazing Stella McCartney prints to worry about the cultural and logistical significance of adding another entire season to the formal fashion cycle right now.

Book Club: Priceless

2010-06-13T23:47:00.000-04:00

Sometimes, I feel that I need to work on learning more about the history of fashion design (it's been a few years since we did that primer course) and also become one of those people who can recognize an item from the Chanel 1986 Spring Summer collection just like that.

But maybe that's just not the kind of fashionista I am meant to be!

This week, I've been working through William Poundstone's book, Priceless: The Myth of Fair Value (And How to Take Advantage of It), and trying to see the ways in which his findings and research apply to my fashion practice as a stylist, consumer of manufactured goods, and sometimes editor.

Some very interesting claims so far (I'm just a third of the way through the book):

1. In practice, we understand prices really in terms of the product's "relativity" to it's previous price (or what we think it should be priced at), and the prices of competitors rather than what a certain dollar amount is "worth" or "means." Which certainly explains why we feel like a discounted $500 pair of shoes can be a "bargain" even though we may not have paid $300 for the same pair at retail "on principle."

2. After a certain point price stops being an objective marker of value to the buyer - for example, a $1000 watch would not bring you 100 times more happiness (or tell time that much better) than a $10 watch, but regardless you might want to buy the much more expensive timepiece...

I'm just now trying to figure out what these findings mean for my personal shopping habits...

Location, Location, Location

2010-06-08T15:30:00.000-04:00

How amazing is this Tatler Hong Kong May 2010 photoshoot styled by Holly Suan Gray and shot by Baldovino Barani? Lovely and amazing! (see the rest here)

Legends

2010-06-03T21:22:00.001-04:00

One of the best parts of freelancing has got to be actually getting out of the office and meeting some of the names that I have seen so often on call sheets, but never actually worked with in real life. There is something great about watching someone with amazing amount of experience work, and learning something small in the way that they interact and carry themselves, even if I'm not at the point where I'm actually collaborating with them.

I had the chance to assist on a shoot with Hans Feurer behind the lens this week, and it was great fun to try speaking in my terrible French with a fashion legend.

Hans loves the morning light, which really shows in many of my favorite photographs that he's taken.

Day in the life of a Canadian fashion designer...

2010-05-18T11:58:00.001-04:00

...this Op-Ed from Toronto-based fashion designer Thien Le from the Spring issue of Lush magazine was a good if one-sided read. Reminded me strongly of some of the reasons I didn't pursue a career in design after years of interning and then working part-time for another Canadian designer while in school. It's a tough way to make money, and I didn't have the passion for it.

True or False

2010-05-13T12:40:00.001-04:00

People in the fashion industry are really contaminated with bad habits. A certain human kindness evaporates once you make a career in fashion. In the beginning you’re really treated badly and then you seem to get accustomed to it. - Joerg Koch, editor of 032c (from a New York Times interview)

I don't necessarily think that this is pervasive or true, because gosh knows I've met so many wonderful, creative and nice people that work in fashion and in magazines. But when I saw this quote posted on a friend's Facebook page (who works in fashion at a Conde Nast magazine), it made me really wonder. Maybe it's a self-perpetuating stereotype rather than an actual truth?

Advertorials and Editorial Independence

2010-05-10T01:06:00.001-04:00

Since high school, I've always loved reading Nylon magazine, which has great fashion news, interesting profiles, and a young and fun take on fashion. As an independent magazine, I've always heard that it is run on a small budget and features the work of up-and-coming stylists and writers, some of whom contribute for free in exchange for the opportunity. Yet, I was still shocked by the plethora of advertorials in the April issue, which I just recently read.

The above advertisement for Nixon, for example (a regular Nylon advertiser), looks almost identical to the surrounding fashion editorial stories in the magazine. Styled by Nylon's own Style Director, the ad is laid out in the exact same way as the magazine's content, in the same fonts and with identical credit formats, making it very challenging for the casual reader to discern its advertorial roots.

I understand that today's economic climate is extremely tough on magazines, and that value-added advertising programs are important; however, as a reader and industry professional I wonder how far the line can be stretched without affecting the integrity of one's perceived editorial independence.

Dear Interns

2010-05-05T23:33:00.000-04:00

Having gone through over a hundred emails today as part of the fashion intern hiring process today, I was incredibly impressed overall with the enthusiasm and experience of the applicants interested in interning for the company that I currently work for. I'm excited to meet and interview our final candidates, and am sorry that we will only need two or three interns this summer.

That having been said, here is a things of what NOT to do when you're apply for a summer internship (in any field, really, not just fashion or the creative industries):

I don't need to see your headshots. This is not a modeling agency.
If using a template cover letter, sign your name where it currently says "Sign name here" rather than leaving it as is. Or better yet, skip the jargon and write something authentic.
If your job objective says you want to work for a company that is not us...then we probably won't be calling you!
If you've attached a resume, there is no need for a CV as well - functionally (for us and really any fashion internship) they are the same thing.

To conclude, a few basic tips for your resume:

Your resume shouldn't be longer than a page. If it is, shorten it. Mine is less than a page long.
PDF's are preferred, although MS Word is fine too. And definitely send resumes as an attachment rather than in the body of the email.
When in doubt, use spell check! And proof read it a second time!
Being enthusiastic really shows, and we appreciate it when your cover letter (in the body of the email) shows a genuine interest in the kind of thing we have to offer you! (Shows you actually read the job posting).

I, too, was guilty of some of these offenses. And although I may interview an excellent candidate whether or not their resume is beautifully formatted and one page long, it can honestly be a deciding factor when a candidate is borderline.

[What do you guys think of these tips? Obvious or interesting?]

If you've ever wondered why something costs so much...

2010-04-29T23:43:00.000-04:00

Another great mini article from the New York Times called "Why Does This Pair of Pants Cost $550?" A great read even if the issue is oversimplified. The bottom line? It pays to know what you are willing to pay extra for (for me, great materials and fit) and what you might not care about (a logo, perchance).

EVEN in a season when designers made no secret about reining in prices to appeal to the newly chastened luxury consumer, it is still possible to walk into a store and wonder what exactly they were thinking when a pair of khaki cotton pants — right there on the hanger, no special packaging or 3G plan or anything — can cost as much as an iPad.

Everything old is new again

2010-04-27T22:34:00.001-04:00

I saw this Vogue UK editorial from March 2008 by Mario Testino and it reminded me of this May 2009 Teen Vogue editorial that was also shot in Cusco, Peru....not sure what to think! Love them both but am curious to if there is any other way to show off this amazing city!

Ps. Randomly, I just happened meet and work with Lily Donaldson (one of the models in the Vogue UK story) for a job last week, and she is that gorgeous in person.

Teen Choice

2010-04-20T22:14:00.001-04:00

It's been a really crazy week with shoots and ad jobs and what not. Stressful.

But what do we think of the latest Teen Vogue editorial? I love that this is being seen by teenage (and college-age) girls across the United States! Pretty edgy.

Oh, actually there's this volcano ash situation...

2010-04-17T11:39:00.000-04:00

There's nothing quite like requesting (then following up...and eventually out right begging) successfully for some fancy runway samples from London, Paris, and Milan for a fashion shoot...and then finding out that all your packages are stuck due to a volcanic eruption in Iceland. What?

I tracked one package yesterday, and the latest status said "Delay - Natural Disaster." Just the perfect thing to end this crazy week with.

Time Out

2010-04-09T22:37:00.001-04:00

It's been a very tough week. I guess it's the nature of the business, and I need to get over it. But in the meanwhile, going to take a few days off to sort out my feelings.

See you guys next week.

Another must read blog

2010-04-08T15:05:00.000-04:00

When I look at the other graduates from my year, and other ex-colleagues from the industry, I see that nearly everyone is either a slave to the industry, or has chosen to have a life, which means a much more modest profession in fashion.

Searching for Style, my latest must-read addition to my Google reader feed. A Canadian and former designer at Sonia Rykiel, the author has really thoughtful and fun commentary on the fashion industry, and life after it (or at least outside of its world centers).

Shoe Lust

2010-04-08T11:46:00.001-04:00

I'm looking forward to buying these shoes from Finsk from Oak in the US!!

These others are just prototypes, but so amazing. Love!
(All photos via Searching for Style)

Italian Match

2010-04-08T00:34:00.001-04:00

I'm loving the colors and beauty elements in this athletic story from Vogue Italia, which was photographed by Craig McDean and styled by his wife Tabitha Simmons.

Extra baggage

2010-04-07T23:32:00.000-04:00

Loving this art piece by Michael Johannson.

Researching South American destinations for a whirlwind vacation in May...can't wait! Last year we hiked the Inca trail, but this year should be a little less adventurous.

Plus ça change

2010-04-07T02:16:00.000-04:00

Of course, the saying is really "Plus ça change, plus c'est la même chose" but it looks like sometimes change can actually happen within a corporation, and rather quickly!

Just days following the New York Times article on unpaid internships that I blogged about over the weekend, Mediabistro reports that Atlantic Media (home of The Atlantic and National Journal) has "decided it will provide pay for all its interns. In fact, the company has decided to retroactively pay last year's interns, worried that their former program fell into a legal 'gray area.'"

Amazing. Let's see if this is where it ends.

The Issue of Unpaid Internships

2010-04-03T00:55:00.000-04:00

When I read this article at nytimes.com today, entitled "Growth of Unpaid Internships May Be Illegal, Officials Say," I immediately considered the ramifications for the fashion and publishing industries. Essentially, the article states that:

With job openings scarce for young people, the number of unpaid internships has climbed in recent years, leading federal and state regulators to worry that more employers are illegally using such internships for free labor...To be sure, many internships involve some unskilled work, but when the jobs are mostly drudgery, regulators say, it is clearly illegal not to pay interns.

My good friend Danielle over at Final Fashion has already blogged about breaking into the fashion industry and the issue of internships, and I stated my opinions on the issue when she interviewed me for that post.

What I do think is interesting about this news article is the government's attempt to really crack down on the use of interns as "free labor," which I think is more common in creative industries with lower knowledge-based barriers to entry such as fashion and film. (I always found it outrageous when my business, math and engineering friends made more money on their internships than I could expect to make as an entry-level worker in the creative industries, but that's another story for another day!)

While I have learned so much from the designer studio and fashion magazine internships that I have been able to do, I can understand how the industry's reliance on unpaid interns could be problematic, especially when I look at certain independent magazines' editorial mastheads and notice that there are more interns than employees listed.

One Ivy League student said she spent an unpaid three-month internship at a magazine packaging and shipping 20 or 40 apparel samples a day back to fashion houses that had provided them for photo shoots.

The question is, of course, whether this time spent shipping samples was educational or an example of a company taking advantage of "free labor," and the issue is more nuanced than it may first appear. For example, how educational and beneficial an internship is to an individual depends on their circumstances going into it, the corporate stance on interns (disposable or a resource to be nurtured and eventually hired), and the individual intern's supervisor's commitment to mentoring and teaching on the job. Perhaps this Ivy League student was learning about the editorial process and allowed to assist on photo shoots whenever she wasn't doing returns! (And for the record, 20 or 40 samples per day is a fairly slow pace, and she was lucky not to be physically schlepping samples around the city!)

In any case, it will be interesting to see how regulators will process with this issue. Already, in the past five years I've noticed that most internships now require college credit (to provide and confirm that educational slant), which is great in theory...but in practice means that some students feel as if they are actually "paying" (for the school credit or internship course) to intern for free, and recent graduates who didn't attend school in an urban area and don't have a dozen internships on their resume are unable to gain much needed experience to be more competitive.

What do you think about unpaid internships in general (not just in fashion)?

(Note: Fashion magazine closet image via.)

Knit Wit

2010-03-31T14:47:00.000-04:00

I'm loving Karla Spectic's amazing knits for FW 2010. The shapes are perfect, and the colors so sweet. I'm going to run out and DYI a cardigan similar to this!

It's almost enough to make me wish I hadn't missed that knitwear class in third year of Fashion Design school!! (via)

MSRP (Manufacturer's Suggested Retail Price)

2010-03-19T14:57:00.000-04:00

Last year, I touched upon the question of retail pricing in a blog post that was meant to voice some confusion and uncertainty about the value of the fashion goods we consume. Unlike the prices of vegetables for example, which become cheaper when they are in season and more expensive the rest of the year (a pricing system that pretty much makes sense), apparel prices are linked to perceived value, the product's desired placement within the market (which is why the certain brands are priced higher in some countries but not others), and the idea of built-in obsolescence.

Today, on Fashionista, there is a great article looking at the recent court rulings on the disputes between luxury fashion brands and retailers on the idea of a suggested retail price (and minimum pricing thresholds). (As an aside, I really enjoy Lauren Sherman's posts on the business of fashion, and her perspective from her experience at magazines such as Forbes seems to have really shaped the fashion coverage on Fashionista.)

When I was young, I just assumed that the MSRP was just the price an item is "worth" and what I would have to spend to acquire that product. The issues were just whether I could afford it, and if I wanted to own it. Then, over time, I learned about profit margins and mark-ups in fashion school, found out about sales, EBay and off-price stores such as TJ Maxx, and was invited to sample sales where goods were marked down anywhere from 50 to 95% off. Now, for me and I think most shoppers, the MSRP is just a starting point, to be supplemented with coupons and flash sales and discount codes...which I'm sure is a scary thought for retailers and designers.

Above, an oft-quoted artwork by conceptual artist Barbara Kruger.

Ethereal Beauty

2010-03-18T11:28:00.001-04:00

It's not rocket science, but I love these Vogue Australia photos from their April 2010 issue. The colors, the blurry edges and soft lighting. They may not be avant-garde or novel, but I was mesmerized (and motivated to shop!) after looking at this fashion story.

And maybe that's how it should be.

Changes at W Magazine

2010-03-17T00:31:00.000-04:00

Today's WWD reports that W Magazine will soon become more like Conde Nast's other consumer titles, and move out of the Fairchild Fashion Group which is to focus more on its business-to-business core (Conde inherited W when it purchased Fairchild Publications, which also includes WWD, years ago). There is a restructuring planned, and it seems like Patrick McCarthy will only remain as chairman "through the end of the year" and a new "editor in chief of W will be named" shortly.

It will be interesting to see what these changes will mean for Conde's most fashion-forward and only larger-format publication...

All in the details!

2010-03-14T20:52:00.000-04:00

I love the lady-like, sophisticated looks that prevailed this season on the international runways. Because it was all about the luxurious fabrics and amazing tailoring details, I felt like the accessories weren't as dramatic this season - and certainly nothing as amazing as Spring 2010's Alexander McQueen lobster claw shoes! Nevertheless, there was a plethora of wearable, chic, classic accessories that helped designers to complete the look. Below are some of my favorites.

Personally, this is what I'm going to start keeping my eyes out for NOW in vintage stores, consignment shops and discount outlets, so that I will be ready for Fall (and still stick to a budget) when it rolls around!

1. Anything with fur or shearling.
2. Voluminous leather gloves.
3. Skinny, well-made belts with no frills but luxurious finishing.
4. The perfect clutch.

New York Fashion Week

2010-02-25T14:09:00.001-05:00

This was an unusual fashion week for me, because I wasn't attending dozens of shows and arranging tickets for 8+ editors and assistants as usual. Instead, it was just me coordinating the schedule for one very reasonable stylist and going to shows that thought to send me an invite. (Normally, whether you are a buyer or blogger or member of the media you get invites by sending out ticket requests to designers' publicists and show production companies each season to request a ticket for each show of interest, using the official Fashion Calendar by Ruth Finley as a guide to show scheduling and happenings of note. This season, I didn't send out any requests for myself.)

It looks like for Fall 2010, we should all be stocking up on furs, shearling, velvet, amazing coats, and lots of wool cashmere! Luxury is the new luxury, and to be ladylike is no longer a faux pas! (After the first few shows, I went right away to Ebay to buy a Vince bomber jacket with a gorgeous fur collar!)

The other big technologically-driven trend this season, which has continued through London and Milan fashion weeks, is the livestreaming of fashion shows. I watched the Marc Jacobs show online live on their site, and to be honest I could see the clothes much better through the webcast than the one time I've been to his show in person many years ago (sitting in the last row!). A lot of editors were also insta-Tweeting and Twitpic-ing from their seats in the front row, some more successfully than others. Finally, several designers are experimenting with selling and sometimes shipping selected goods directly from the runway!! Only time will tell, I think, which of these fads will be dismissed as novelty and which will become a part of the new normal (like bloggers in the front row, which was news worthy last season and the status quo this season).

What was your favorite collection from the New York shows? Do you care about the shows?

I LOVE the New York Times

2010-02-18T00:35:00.000-05:00

[Fashion] is a business that relies heavily on armies of unpaid interns, on jobs involving favors rarely returned and archaic methods of payment like work-for-trade.

Who else these days can make observations like that and mean them? A great article musing about the future of fashion, but also its resistance to change.

Ps. Will post about my New York fashion week favorites shortly!

Above, a tame frame of Iris Strubegger in the V Magazine story referenced in the article.

RIP Mr. Queen

2010-02-11T21:00:00.000-05:00

Today, the first official day of New York Fashion Week, started off sadly with several editors apparently openly crying at the morning shows as emails and texts spread the news that Lee (Alexander) McQueen was found dead in his home in London. Shocking, and a great loss to the fashion community.

Top Dollar for the Front Row

2010-02-04T01:29:00.000-05:00

I've always understood that celebrity wrangling is a big part of the fashion industry, otherwise there wouldn't be gifting suites at Sundance or even InStyle magazine if people didn't care what celebrities wear and are associated with their favorite fashion brands! But now, in addition to more straight-forward spokesperson or endorsement deals, celebrities are now often paid to just to attend (and be photographed at) high-profile events lasting just a few minutes!

I found this article from Fashionista to be fairly disturbing, because it reveals the true cost of having a reality TV star or B-list actress sitting in your front row! Not only is the prime seat being sacrificed, but great sums and work is involved in guaranteeing the attendance of Wireimage worthy figures at your fashion show! What ever happened to celebrities just showing up at the tents because they love fashion and perhaps want some free clothes or to see a great show?

As a consumer, I couldn't care less about the seating assignments of my favorite brands and designers, and with the economy and budgets being the way that they are today in America, it's shocking to think that having a famous face attend your 10 minute show is worth shelling out over $50,000!

Does it matter to you if a celebrity attends a designer's fashion show?

The Grammys

2010-02-01T00:21:00.000-05:00

I thought the Grammy Awards were pretty boring tonight...

But loved Beyonce's Atelier Versace dress during her performance!! Amazing!

TESTing Fashion's Structure

2010-01-18T11:14:00.000-05:00

Everything is getting more accessible these days, whether it’s fashion or celebrity. Now everything is within our reach, which is why consumers are becoming fascinated with the process. It’s something that was previously hidden away...I think what we’re seeing is a move towards a more inclusive and open fashion universe.- Jaime Perlman, Art Director of British Vogue

I read this interview with Jaime Perlman, who started her career at American Vogue, on The Business of Fashion today and was much inspired by her forward thinking and openness to embrace change. As someone who has worked her way up the ranks over the years, and now holds a position of influence, Jaime is not threatened by the changes in the field of fashion photography and publishing. Instead, she's embraced the challenge to fashion's "rigidly hierarchical environment" and created a online magazine, Test, where "people at all levels have a voice." What is amazing is Jaime's analysis of how these two things that she works on complements, rather than opposes, each other.

Another must read interview!

[Above, an image from Test.]

Everyone worth knowing...

2010-01-12T00:20:00.000-05:00

I do like that about photography - it is that day, at that time and you’re never able to go back there again. The next day, you’ll be a day older.

I had no idea who Venetia Scott was when I interned at Marc Jacobs years ago when she would come into his 72 Spring Street studio days before the shows to help style the looks (I was so naive, I didn't even know that shows had to be styled by someone other than the designer!).

This really great interview at Ponystep not only covers Venetia's background and influence over the years, but also her views on a host of fascinating topics such as the peril of fashion magazines shooting "full looks" and the changes in her creative process over the years.

I find magazines less and less interesting - I don’t really buy magazines or look at magazines. I mean I’ve got a twelve year old and we were talking about it yesterday - she’ll go on the internet and probably look at something like your magazine more. She would not ever go to a newsagent and buy a magazine. And even here when we get sent ones that I’ve got work in, she’s not really interested in it. In a way I’m doing less editorial because it seems a bit tired now.

Counterfeits Etc

2010-01-07T01:28:00.000-05:00

In WWD this week, there was an article about the research of an M.I.T. professor, Renee Richardson Gosline, on the issue of counterfeiting. Gosline, who actually used to be a Brand Management Associate at LVMH Moet Hennessey Louis Vuitton and has a PHD from Harvard Business School, found that a good percentage of consumers who buy counterfeit products eventually end up buying the real thing.

I find this research fascinating, because on the one hand this conclusion absolutely makes sense, since the people who are out there buying fakes are also the ones more likely to care about brand recognition and prestige. Therefore, if they find the counterfeit item to be poorly made or insufficiently authentic to others (or themselves), then it makes sense that they will later on splurge on the original.

On the other hand, I wonder whether it's actually financially so possible for so many people to actually PAY for whatever luxury items at the retail price. There is a big difference between a $15 Canal street purchase and a $1500 bag that comes inside its own logo'd cloth bag, inside a crisp logo'd shopping bag with the beautiful rope handles. Even if one came to the conclusion that buying counterfeit items fools no one and is unethical for a host of creative and economic reasons, that's a lot of money.

Furthermore, I have personally seen hundreds of shoppers buy and wear counterfeit items absolutely without irony or true awareness of the original, particularly while traveling in Southeast Asia. Having the counterfeit, in some ways, IS the status symbol in those cases...because at least it cost more to purchase than a plain (no logo) comparable. There is no pretense involved.

Above, a counterfeit and a genuine accessory paired together - a visual from my MA project. Below, a passage on authenticity and the reproduction from the same project, just as some food for thought...(all quotes from Walter Benjamin)

In principle, all artworks have “always been reproducible,” the important difference is that now they are mechanically rather than manually reproduced. Faster and more affordable to produce, a “technical reproduction can put the copy of the original into situations which would be out of reach for the original itself,” changing the way that one interacts with artwork. Ultimately, Benjamin believes that even a perfect reproduction of an artwork lacks what he describes as “its presence in time and space.” Accordingly, what “withers” is “the aura of the work of art,” or its authority.

Have you ever bought a counterfeit item? If yes, how do you feel about the purchase now?

Happy New Year!!

2010-01-04T12:39:00.000-05:00

My style resolution this year? To try harder to show my taste off in a visually comprehensive package. It sounds really silly but I've always favored comfort over drama in the way I dress (I'm not a risk-taker like Susie Bubble or a frequent shopper like Jane Aldridge and while I appreciate design details and have a passion for beautiful construction and unusual silhouettes, it doesn't always show when I put it all together. (It doesn't help that I'm quite petite, limiting the amount of exaggeration I can tolerate on my frame...no dropped croch pants or clam diggers for example!) I would also love to add some more neutrals to my primarily black wardrobe.

What are some of yours?

Happy Holidays!!

2009-12-24T11:04:00.000-05:00

This year, I got most of everything on my to do and to wear list! The only thing left to look for on Boxing Day is a parka with real fur lining, perhaps like this little Marc by Marc number...

What's still on your list?

Speaking of Spring 2010 Shoes...

2009-12-13T19:04:00.001-05:00

I've been looking through a TON of Style.com and Elle.com accessories photos for a freelance gig...and there are so many brilliant ones! Here, my top 5 shoes from the runway that I would actually want to wear as well!

From top: Alexander Wang, Alexander McQueen, Versace, YSL and Louise Goldin.

Ps. Looks like I should be stocking up on ankle socks too for Spring.

Note: All photos from Elle.com.

McQueen SS2010 shoes!

2009-12-13T18:59:00.000-05:00

I finally saw one in person! So beautiful, and super light! They were size 40 and I'm a size 35 so there was no reason for me to try them on...but I can attest that they are walkable, if not comfortable - I've seen them in action.

To me, this is what high fashion is about - super trendy, original, and makes me so excited that I would even consider buying them for whatever the ridiculous retail price would be! And, too complex and well-made to be knocked off! You won't be seeing these at TJ Maxx or on Canal Street (I hope)!

Country Roads Lead to Somewhere

2009-12-04T00:20:00.000-05:00

Sorry for the recent paucity of posts! We just got back from a long-awaited visit to Australia, where I was inspired by the California-esque laid-back aesthetic but appalled by the retail prices in all of the Melbourne boutiques. Comparable clothes (even those designed in Australia and produced in China, as most were) cost at least 25% more than in the United States!!

(Over lunch with a friend who is a designer for a hip Australian sportswear company, I found out that high taxes and duties contribute to this price difference...the example she gave me is a $20 top from China will cost the company $40 total...and after the wholesale and retail markups that top will end up costing the consumer a cool $160. Eek!)

One place where I was tempted to make a purchase was at Country Road, which aesthetically reminded me of Montauk or the Hamptons meets Ralph Lauren...nautical and casual, but infused with a chic minimalist core. A city girl in the country, perhaps.

Gifting Power

2009-11-23T15:56:00.000-05:00

As someone who's worked at a few consumer publications over the years, one of the few eternal points in the editorial cycle is the dreaded and wonderful "Gift Guide." Every magazine does one every year, and it can be at once liberation (we can feature anything we love!), formulaic (every year, the same product categories are presented without little variation), advertiser-driven, and fun.

But this year, I'm much impressed with Candy Pratts Price's gift guide for Style.com - bonus points for gorgeous and definitely original! So sad that her contract will not be renewed for the website for next year!!!

The Issue of Pricing

2009-11-13T12:10:00.000-05:00

I want to write a full length, thoughtful post about this this weekend...but I've been thinking a lot about the issue of pricing fashion goods a lot recently. In design school, you're taught how to price your goods based on your material and labor costs...but that doesn't quite work, because that gorgeous Hermes bag isn't probably costing the brand half of ten thousand dollars or whatever to produce. So maybe the idea is to start with the consumer you want to sell you, and price your goods comparably to the other brands you'd like to compete with. Or it can just be arbitrary...

On the other hand, as a consumer (and fashion industry insider), I'm perpetually confused about what I should or want to be spending on any particular item. What is the price something is worth - is it simply what I'm willing to pay for it? Or what I think it cost to manufacture? Is it the retail price, or the discount store price, or the sample sale price, or the wholesale editor's special price, or the online secret shopping club that anyone can join price???

What is your purchase policy?

The Future of Fashion

2009-11-11T12:22:00.000-05:00

This was the title of a panel at the 92nd Street Y that I went to at the last minute a few weeks ago. Someone on my Twitter list had an extra ticket and I decided it would be interesting to listen to Cindi Leive, Ashley Olsen, Isaac Mizrahi and Robin Givhan speak about the future of the fashion industry.

I went away wishing that the event had just been a presentation by Robin rather than panel discussion, since she definitely had the most thoughful and interesting commentary on the fashion business, standards of beauty in the media, and the role of clothing in our lives.

But nevertheless, attending the event forced me to rethink some bleak truths:

The power of celebrity to sell products, whether it's Ashley Olsen as a designer or Michelle Obama as a trendsetter.

We live in a time where the same idea will be sold at dozens of different price points and quality levels, and it is up to us as consumers to decide where within the range we will participate. This decision is to be repeated ad nauseum. As a designer, the goal is to figure out where in the spectrum you are comfortable being, and where your skills and aesthetic tendencies are best utilized.

No one really knows what the future will hold - you could've had me and a few of my friends in the industry up there instead of the panelists and although our opinions may stem from less practical experience, our guesses could have been just as valid.

Above, an image by illustrator Anna Higgie

The end of Luella?

2009-11-11T02:46:00.000-05:00

For me, Luella has always been a quirky favorite. One of those brands whose samples I always relished trying on and requesting for work, because the adorable girly shapes and frou frou fabrics created a sense of romance on the bleakest of days. And yet, as much as I loved looking at the clothes, I never ordered or bought at retail anything from the British label. Perhaps this is because I thought the quirks and romance of bows and ribbons had no place in my practical New York life.

And it seems like I was not alone. In yesterday's Woman's Wear Daily, it is revealed that the brand is being shuttered and its Spring 2010 collection (which was just shown weeks ago at London Fashion Week) will not be sold.

I wonder, aren't we supposed to use fashion as an escape, especially during a recession?

Why Fashion Shows Still Exist

2009-09-13T21:06:00.000-04:00

Sorry for the brief posting hiatus, dear readers. A small trip out of state and many nights up late prepping for New York Fashion Week tickets and schedules for Europe for editors have me burning the candle on both ends.

I love the pieces above from VPL's Spring 2010 collection, shown in New York at Pier 59 this past weekend. They might not look like much from the style.com image, but in person the nylon netting and shoulder pad details are exquisite and ethereal rather than pale and homely. If I hadn't seen these looks up close and personal, my review or perspective of the Spring collection would perhaps be much different.

And that, of course, is why fashion labels still have shows, previews, and resees for both the media and buyers despite the exorbitant price tag. Because we have not lost the value in seeing something in three dimensions.

The September Issue

2009-08-24T22:59:00.000-04:00

In case you're not a voracious reader of NY-based fashion blogs, The September Issue, that oh so famous Vogue magazine documentary, comes out Friday!! Fashion Week Daily has the theatre info for Manhattan, and you bet I'll be there this Friday night to watch Anna and Grace banter it out!

Fashion is a religion. This is the Bible.

Thoughts? How relevant do you think any single medium or even magazine title is in today's age of hyper fragmented audiences and uber niche markets?

You can check out the trailer here.

Fashion and Antifashion

2009-08-13T21:12:00.000-04:00

Anti-fashion attempts a timeless style, tries to get the essential element of change out of fashion altogether. - Daniel Miller, Consumption: Critical Concepts in the Social Sciences

The longer I work in "fashion," the more I am obsessed with the idea of "anti-fashion."

Basically, whereas the former is about trends and change, the latter is about a way of dress that is seasonless and conceptually driven. I'm not talking about a punk aesthetic or the denunciation of clothing and consumption; rather, it's (for me) the appreciation of core products for my lifestyle that are well-designed, well-made, and will last for many years within my wardrobe. I like the idea of replacing pieces because they're worn out, not just because I've experienced visual fatigue of a particular trend (boyfriend jeans, for example).

For that reason, one of my favorite brands -at least theoretically speaking- is Mary Ping's Slow and Steady Wins the Race. Based in New York, the label aims to "push and produce interesting and significant pieces from the simplest fabrics and materials" and "yield a limited number of fresh pieces in a regulated pace throughout the calendar year. This accelerated pace is a commentary on modern fashion’s temporal nature." Each series focuses on refining (not revolutionizing) beloved silhouettes in fashion, resulting in simple, crisp designs that are visually appealing and yet familiar. The idea of seasonal trends is rendered obsolete - in fact, I've been wearing the wedge shoes pictured for two years and it's never gone in or out of style (although they continue to garner compliments frequently). Styles from each series are simply sold until stock runs out!

This is perhaps the other side of the "fast fashion" coin.

Thoughts?

And I'm Back!

2009-08-09T15:01:00.000-04:00

Sorry for the brief hiatus, my dear readers (if any of you are still out there)! I've decided to start blogging again! Too many beautiful things not to share and talk about.

While I was away, I got a chance to graduate from my Master's degree in Communication and Culture, move to New York City, and immerse myself in all sorts of wonderful and challenging things.

Ps. Isn't this Erdem Fall 09 dress amazing? I tried it on at the office a few months ago though and alas its proportions are too challenging for my petite frame. Sad!

Style.com

2007-11-16T00:59:00.001-05:00

Hm...Style.com says goodbye to W Magazine. The new W website looks amazing (I like the editor's blog especially and the big colorful spreads). I wonder if Vogue.com will launch too or if it'll just continue as Style.com...

On an unrelated note

2007-11-14T02:56:00.000-05:00

I saw this on the New York Times website and said "YES! Definitely!" ...but only because I thought it said "Editorial Job Insecurities."

You can tell where my mind is these days! Looking for a fashion job in this climate is no fun.

Another kind of fakes

2007-11-14T02:35:00.000-05:00

“If you actually put it on and wear it, it is different from cotton,” said Dennis Wilson, Lululemon’s founder, chief product designer and board chairman. “That’s my only test of it,” said Mr. Wilson, known as Chip.

There has been a great deal of discussion on blogs and in the mass media lately about copy right infringement when it comes to fashion. Obviously, we as designers and as consumers still care about authenticity and originality (and the bottom line) in terms of design features and other VISIBLE forms of quality and truth.

But how much do we care about performance and functionality as factors in quality? I was thinking about that today as I read this article in the New York Times today about how Lululemon clothes in their VitaSea line actually don't have any seaweed in them (instead of the 24% that's claimed on the government mandated tags). I didn't even know you can make clothes out of seaweed, but that wasn't the point really. I just think it's interesting that no one at the company tested the claims of the manufacturer, there is no one from the government who makes sure the tags don't lie and that companies can't just make whatever claims they want or believe to be true, and the consumer, when asked about it in the article, simply responds:

I couldn’t care less [that it's not made of seaweed] because it is so comfortable.

Isn't it funny? What is the point of buying something for the "feel-good messages" if they AREN'T EVEN TRUE? It's not like I really care if seaweed cotton blends wick moisture better than polyester cotton blends...I just like to get what I pay for...

Is that too much to ask?

Calling all New York design groupies

2007-11-06T19:41:00.001-05:00

Loving fashion is about so much more than shopping at sample sales or knowing who celebrities wear to events...

I think the historical, social and personal aspects of fashion theory and the industry of fashion is fascinating as well. That's why you'll find me at at least one (if not more) of these Fashion Talks being hosted by the New York French institute. I think it should be a really great time, and a chance to see the designers behind those frocks we see on Style.com.

Art de Vivre:
Fashion Talks with Pamela Golbin
Discover the creative genius of designers from three legendary French fashion houses as they talk about their work and process.

Anyone going to join me?

A Sign of the Times??

2007-10-31T23:37:00.000-04:00

So sad! Now you can pay to intern for free!! Madness.

What does everyone think of this? I mean, it's bad enough that interns (who are fabulous) can't get paid these days, and that you can't get a good magazine job without at least one good internship...and that most internships require school credit (which means you're metaphorically paying to learn at the internship)...but now...it's a prize to intern?? Even if the money goes to charity, this is a sketchy prize!

[Full disclose: I've done over 7 internships throughout my undergraduate and graduate degrees, just because of the nature of the fields I was interested in (fashion design and publishing). Also, I've supervised up to 5 interns at a time, and have hired at least a dozen over the years for various workplaces...and I love my interns (and love having them, if I'm going to be honest).]

Attention fashionistas

2007-10-21T21:18:00.000-04:00

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150174510336

I'm selling this Moschino boot lamp on Ebay. I love it, but my husband won't let me put it up in our house. Maybe one of you guys might be interested.

Moschino introduced these really cool lamps in the shape of handbags, boots and lace-up corsets at the Milan furniture fair in April, and this was my favourite of all the shapes. You can read about them here:

http://fashioncrack.com/black/just-how-sexy-can-a-lamp-be-the-moschino-dress-lamp-answers/

Marc Jacobs and Punctuality

2007-09-13T00:09:00.000-04:00

What do you think?

I thought that today's article from Women's Wear Daily was fascinating.

"I work my ass off," he said. "I don't take vacations, I don't have homes all over the world, I don't ride horses: I f---ing work for a living. Again, like this idea, you have a family? OK, well that's nice, I don't, and I work. So leave me alone and don't come to the show next time."

This was Marc's comment to WWD, but I am not sure what I feel on the issue. On the one hand, I agree with him about the logistical and production problems with European factories being closed for weeks and weeks in the summer time, and I have actually experienced first hand what it's like in his 72 Spring Street studio in the weeks leading up to a show (NOT pretty). Yet, isn't it HIS choice to do the men's, women's and marc by marc collections? And live in Paris for most of the year to work on Vuitton but keep his namesake lines in Manhattan?

Does anyone else care about this besides me? :)
And what did everyone think of the collection? I have to see the clothes in person I think to really form an educated opinion. Right now, my instinct is a small bit of shock and a large bit of disappointment (I wouldn't spend thousands on those pieces, irony and revolutionary or not). But we'll see how its influence ripples out (or not) across the other collections...

The Fashionista Diaries

2007-09-03T13:15:00.000-04:00

This show on Soapnet is hilarious and very, very unrealistic. As someone who has been and will likely again in the future be an assistant at a magazine, these characters have responsibilities more like interns would...

But hey, it's still highly addictive.

And this comment from Bridget from Radar Online is hilarious:

"It's tough, because they're making us work, like, long hours, and we have to answer to people. Plus, we all worked so hard to get to the top of our fields. Having to do this stuff is like starting over."

First of all, she IS an assistant - what did she expect? Long hours are par for the course. And I really doubt that at the age of 24 that any of these contestants are at or close to the top of their field. People at the top of their fields don't quit their day jobs to go on a reality show about fashion-industry assistants.

Sigh.
Does anyone else out there watch the show?

Fashionista priorities

2007-08-27T01:07:00.000-04:00

My dear friend Julie of Almost Girl sent me a link to this New York Times article last night when we were chatting online. Basically, the author discusses all of the fashion items that one could go without in order to save up for long-term goals such as an apartment in Queens or a "decent" retirement. The lead, in fact, reads:
"Saving isn’t as much fun as spending, true. But once you get into the habit, what you might blow on your closet could end up netting a much prettier penny down the line."

This feature is interesting and reminds me a lot of the service articles that appear in women's magazines that discuss, for example, how going without your daily Starbucks could actually lead to hundreds of dollars in savings per year. But there are some points that I thought of immediately that discounts this seemingly sage advice immediately:

1. In order to actually save any of the amounts suggested, one would have to MAKE that much in the first place! How many of us (or NY Times readers) are even raking in $6657 a month anyway?

2. These are luxury items, and it's silly to assume that everyone is buying a fur coat each month. The reason that most people feel justified in spending that much on a fashion garment in the first place is that it will (theoretically) last a lifetime because of the superior construction, etc.

3. What if the small, monthly purchases cumulatively bring you as much joy as that kitchen renovation? Would they be worth it then?

Anyway, just some food for thought. The whole saving money versus splurging on fashion items debate is sadly quite prominent in my life currently - because I work in an industry that cares what I wear, I sometimes justify the disproportionately (to my income) extravagant purchases that I make by saying that it's an investment in my career.

Am I being silly?
What do you do?

Prada sample sale...

2007-08-14T22:48:00.000-04:00

3 appointments times left on Thursday, and all slots still open Monday, if you can get in...

x

pradasamplesale.com
NYC

Price isn't always the best indicator of quality

2007-07-16T00:19:00.001-04:00

There has been some response to my post a few weeks ago about quality in the mass market fashion industry, which is exciting.

I should point out, though, that the sad thing is that the price tag of an item is hardly a reliable indicator these days of its quality. I've seen features in magazine such as Marie Claire and Glamour in the past few months about why fashion items cost as much as they do, and the differences between one designer's bag at target and in her eponymous line, for example. The problem is, some of the justifications just don't make sense to me. Paying $555 for someone to make me a great fitting wool cashmere jacket is one thing, but I'm not going to shell out for hand sandpapered jeans...but that's just me. What do you guys think?

Anyway, the other problem I have with these articles (as much as they help justify my occasional splurges to my husband...) is that they don't mention that a lot of the "quality" details exist in cheaper items as well! It's about knowing what to look for...

For example, ignoring my terrible photography and styling, the bag I bought above last week cost $25 (On sale for $50 from originally $100 but it was buy one get one free and so my friend and I each bought one) at H&M, but I've been getting some compliments on it and I think it's an exceptionally great value from the Swedish company. (Disclosure: I first saw it on a fashion designer friend and sourced it from her!) Why? Well, unlike a lot of the other bags at H&M that were just as cute, it was well-stitched (heavy thread, good match between thread and leather color, no puckering and good sewing tension overall), has a decent lining fabric and color, was made of real leather (most of their other $34.90 bags were pleather or fabric) and the design was simple and tasteful enough for me to wear it to work...even though I work at a fashion-obsessed place.

Do you even consider these details when you're shopping?

Book Review: Falling Out of Fashion

2007-07-15T16:42:00.000-04:00

Falling Out of Fashion
by Karen Yampolsky

So, I'm sure as everyone's heard by now, Jane magazine is dead. Not even the website will go on. I have a former colleague and friend who worked there (though not close) and was saddened to hear of its abrupt demise. The August issue will be the last - I wonder what they'll send me now to complete my subscription!

Anyway, so at Barnes and Noble yesterday I hunkered down and read "Falling Out of Fashion" very quickly. Written by a former assistant of the infamous Jane Pratt, the book chronicles not very discreetly some version of the rise and fall of Jane (and Sassy, really). As a magazine addict and industry employee, I thought it was a good fluffy read, but definitely not Devil Wears Prada calibre. The things Yampolsky reveals (editor perks and swag, for one) are old news these days, and the story is too true to life to be captivating.

The story begins as "Jill" goes to prep school and ends with her firing from the helm of her eponymous magazine, and it was with irony that I read the last section which predicted the demise of the magazine without its founder. At the time, the predictions might have seemed wistful (the triumph of personality over commerce and advertising dollars!)...but now they've come true!

Still, not really a book worth reading.

Perfect for bridesmaids...

2007-07-04T18:33:00.000-04:00

For some bizarre reason, the Marshalls at Atlantic Center has $80 lavender colored grosgrain Marc Jacobs mouse flats (like the ones above but different material and color, obviously). About 7 pairs in various sizes. Not mine, however.

Credits

2007-06-30T19:20:00.000-04:00

In my fashion research, the old editorial director of Fairchild Publications once said in an interview that the only difference between a fashion photograph and an art photograph would be that the former includes credit (or shopping) information.

I've been avidly reading magazines since I was 10 and obsessed with borrowing issues of YM and Girl's Life from the public library every month. But until I started really going behind the scenes at fashion and beauty magazines myself, I was rather naive about how the genre operated. I always thought, for example, that when a magazine featured someone in their home that the home always looks the way it does (it's normally somewhat to completely propped), with all the amazing accessories and styling. Also, I assumed that the clothes people wore were their own - which is (in 99% of the time) not true!

But the biggest concession to the commercial nature of magazines in my opinion? Beauty credits! I remember in high school trying to "copy" the look of many a Seventeen cover girl...and it shocked me to find out that beauty credits are normally advertiser friendly rather than honest. Basically, the make-up artist does their magic with whatever products they have and like (or get for free as they might be sponsored by a make-up conglomerate). Then, the credit is given to whatever company or companies the magazine wants to keep happy...

What do you think about this? Has everyone but me always known about this practice and I'm just naive?

A Matter of Quality

2007-06-23T17:11:00.000-04:00

If your clothes are poorly made, and you don't know...does it matter?

This was the big question that I was thinking about the other day, while browsing Forever 21. That store really scares me, and is really a wonderful example of why I went to graduate school to theorize about fashion rather than choosing to become a fashion designer with my Bachelor of Design in Fashion Design!

The thing is that Forever21 is forever basing its designs on that of others, but doing it quickly and cheaply. So whenever I go there, I see cute things that are incredibly affordable. However, I can't help but notice the poor quality of the fabrics, especially the jerseys that are so vibrant in color. Some of the trims have a terrible hand (touch) and I can't stand raw edges or serged edging. It just looks cheap to me, however cute the design may be.

During my last visit, for example, I saw a really cute woven top for $25 that I would have happily purchased even though it was made of polyester and wouldn't survive a few rounds in my washing machine...but then I noticed the zipper. At a moderately price store such as J.Crew or Banana Republic there would be a neat little invisible zipper. Instead, that Forever21 top has a cheap plastic zipper in a color that doesn't quite match the fabric (in fashion school they teach us that zippers should be slightly darker rather than lighter than the garment fabric). Why? I kept thinking: Why doesn't Forever21 spend the extra 25 cents in the factory to get a nice zipper sewn in? Doesn't that increase the value of the garment?

And then it dawned on me, they don't make the little investments in value because it doesn't pay off - most if not all of their shoppers either can't tell the difference in construction methods or wouldn't care.

Which is too bad, because even at that price point, a few of us do care.

New links

2007-06-17T12:25:00.000-04:00

Jezebel
Like Jossip + Gawker + Fashionista all rolled into one! Fun!

...and

i'll never tell...except here
She goes to all the best parties and she's not even 20 yet! Got fired from Teen Vogue over this blog...but it's still juicy! Love the spunk, and she goes to the best parties.

My new favourite blogs...for better, and for worse.